Puppy Potty Training - First Steps

You will need to "puppy proof" your house. Puppies are like babies; they want to explore every corner of your house and they want to put everything into their mouths. A good rule to follow is that anything that is not safe for children is not safe for pets.
Puppies learn new skills at different rates. It will take time for your puppy to develop a firm understanding of where it's acceptable to potty and where it is not. It will take time for your pup to consistently understand that the entire house is the den, not to be soiled.

Puppies need to relieve themselves frequently, sometimes as often as once an hour. There will be many accidents, especially at first. Never lose your temper at the puppy and always use simple, consistent one or two word commands. If you do not, your pup could become frightened and confused about what you expect.
The first step in potty training requires that you learn the clues that indicate your puppy needs to potty. These clues are restlessness, sniffing the floor, or returning to a previously soiled spot. Your pup will need to potty about 5-20 minutes after eating, sleeping, or playing. When you take your puppy outside to potty, go to the same spot each time and don't play. You want your puppy to focus on one thing only during puppy potty training -- going in the right area. As soon as your puppy goes potty, praise enthusiastically. Give your puppy a small food treat to reinforce the positive behavior. While your puppy is going potty, praise very softly so you don't interrupt the behavior. Be enthusiastic after your puppy is done.
While you're potty training, you must keep the puppy close to you always, so that the puppy does not have the opportunity to fail. This means starting the puppy out in a small area of the house and following the puppy nonstop. Alternatively, attach one end of a leash to the puppy and the other end to you, so that the puppy is no farther away from you than the end of the leash.
When you are not able to watch the puppy, put the puppy into a kennel; or, if you have a fenced yard and the weather is good, you can put the puppy outside. However, putting the puppy outside when you aren't watching means you lose the opportunity to reward. The kennel is a preferable training tool. A young pup 7-9 weeks old should be in a kennel for no more than two hours at a time. A puppy cannot control itself for longer than that.
Accidents During Puppy Potty Training
If you catch your puppy in the act of going potty in the house, you can do one of two things. The most common advice is to correct with a firm, "no" and immediately take the puppy to the proper toilet area. This may not effectively discourage the puppy from going indoors. What often happens instead is that puppies learn to make sure you aren't watching when they go indoors, so they go behind the couch, in a closet, etc.
Newer understanding of dog behavior says that instead of punishing on the spot, you do everything you can to prevent indoor accidents. If they happen, ignore them. You don't want to give the dog any attention for this mistake. Simply put the puppy in its kennel or outside when he/she is finished; say nothing and clean up the mess thoroughly using an enzymatic cleaner. Then redouble your efforts to get the puppy out before there is an accident.
Rubbing Nose?
Don't ever hit a puppy for accidents. You'll frighten or confuse the puppy if you do so. Never punish a puppy after the fact. Remember, a puppy thinks it is being punished for whatever it is doing at the time of your correction.
The same thinking applies to rubbing a puppy's nose in his or her mistakes -- don't do it. The pup is not capable of making the reasoning leap that this is an area previously soiled and that is why you are punishing. Dogs are oriented to the present. 
What Happens During Training When Your Puppy Does Not Potty?
If you take your puppy outside and nothing happens, return the puppy to the kennel for 5-15 minutes. Then take the puppy outside again for a few minutes. Repeat this cycle until the puppy goes potty. As soon as that happens, the puppy can stay outside the kennel. This kind of routine helps the puppy focus on going when you want the puppy to go.
The Leash, Outside and Puppy Potty Training
As your puppy starts to get the routine, begin training to also go potty while on the leash, in areas other than your yard, and on varied surfaces. When you travel, your puppy will have the confidence and experience to go wherever you need the puppy to go.
You and your dog will make lots of mistakes during this time. Your puppy will do fine as long as you strive to be as consistent as possible. Your occasional training errors and frustrations will not permanently scar your dog. Dogs are quite resilient. And so are you! 
Crate Training 
Crate training is not putting your dog/puppy in a "cage" or "jail" and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips. Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den. Dog crates make excellent dens. A crate offers your dog security, a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own where he can go to get away from it all. It is also a safe place for him to stay when you're away or when you cannot watch him. 
There are basically just a few steps in crate training and they are as follows: 
1. Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog. He should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down. His crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be when you cannot be with him. 
2. Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate and throw in a treat or piece of kibble. When he enters, praise him and close the crate door. Gradually increase the time he spends in the crate before you let him out. Remember, your dog still needs time to play and eliminate. Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors, so as not to confine him too long. 
3. As a general guide, your puppy can stay in his crate comfortably for several hours, depending on his age. Take his age in months, add 1, and that's how many hours he should be able to stay in his crate (up to about 8 hours). For example, a 2-month old puppy should be comfortable in his crate for about 3 hours. 
4. Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too large may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other.  Make sure you take your dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular schedule and especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time. Always take your dog outside on a leash to the same area in your backyard to eliminate so you can praise him when his job is finished. 
This will take the guesswork out of his visits to the backyard. 

We recommend Nutri Source 
 small-medium breed puppy food.   Give pup this until it is 6 months old.   Keep     a  bowl with  about a cup of food in it at all times.  This teaches the pup to graze NOT GOBBLE....If you can’t find this brand,  go with a good quality professional brand. Science Diet, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, Blue Buffalo, are all good.
 Read the label, you want meat to be the first ingredient.
 The first few days can be stressful.  We recommend having a couple cans of Pedigree canned food to spoil puppy.  Once they have settled in, they should be eating only dry.

 We recommend NutriSource Puppy 

The most important condition to look out for when you first get your puppy is known as hypoglycemia. This condition appears most frequently in toy breeds, BUT CAN OCCUR ANY TIME A PUPPY STOPS EATING. According to the US National Laboratory of Medicine, hypoglycemia is the sudden drop in the concentration of glucose (sugar) in the blood below normal levels. Although most commonly seen in puppies 5-16 weeks of age, adult “teacup” dogs can encounter this problem if not properly cared for. This condition occurs more frequently in smaller dogs due to the lack of muscle mass of “teacup” dogs. Less muscle mass equates to a tougher time in storing glucose, making toy dog breed more susceptible to hypoglycemia.

Your pup’s body utilizes glucose as the main source of energy. As long as your puppy eats on a regular basis (see the section on feeding below), their glucose levels should remain stable. However, certain events can speed up the onset of hypoglycemia such as stress, low body temperature, poor nutrition, change in food, and infections. (Please read below on easing your puppy into their new environment). Signs of hypoglycemia include laziness, lethargicness, drowsiness, stumbling around, shivering, depression, and in severe cases, a coma like state. One of the best methods for checking hypoglycemia involves feeling the gums. A healthy puppy’s gums will feel warm and have a nice pink color. If your puppy’s gums feel cold and look white, your puppy could be experiencing hypoglycemia. 

If you notice any of the above mentioned symptoms, immediately feed them a high sugar supplement such as Karo syrup, Nutra-Cal or Nutri-Stat. Karo syrup can be found at most grocery stores, and the other two supplements at most pet stores. Since Karo syrup is mainly composed of glucose, this would be the preferred supplement to treat hypoglycemia. Simply place a dab of Karo syrup on your fingertip and allow the puppy to lick it off. Sometimes a puppy will refuse to lick the syrup from your finger. In this instance, gently open the puppy’s mouth and scrape the syrup off the back of their front teeth and allow them to swallow. Repeat the process a couple times until the gums turn back to normal, or until the above symptoms have passed. Most puppies can recover from mild hypoglycemia within 10-20 minutes. In severe cases where your puppy appears to be going into a coma like state, immediately bring them into to your local animal hospital while having a passenger force feeding them with Karo syrup on your way there.

All in all, severe and non-severe cases of hypoglycemia can be avoided by:

1. Paying close attention to your little puppy 
2. Proper feeding
3. Rest 
We recommend checking their gums every few hours just to ensure that your little one stays healthy. If you work during the day, come back at lunch or as often as you can to check on your puppy’s health. The next section will discuss methods on easing a puppy into a new environment to help alleviate rapid onsets of hypoglycemia. 
The First Few Days After You Bring Your Puppy Home

When you first bring your new puppy home, they may experience some nervousness in their new environment. Everything from new sights, smells and people can be peculiar to your new puppy. You should allow them to explore their new surroundings and encourage them to play. Speaking quietly and calmly can help alleviate some nervousness and accommodate them to your voice. With a little patience, your new puppy will soon become acclimated to their new environment and enjoying their new home. 

When it comes to bed time, your puppy will be accustomed to sleeping with their brothers and sisters. The abruptness of sleeping alone can invoke a feeling of loneliness causing them to cry for the first few nights. 


A sudden change in diet coupled with a new environment can be extremely stressful for your new puppy. If you decide to change the brand of food, you must SLOWLY incorporate the new food into their diet. You can do this by simply mixing your puppy’s current food with the new food. Start slowly, and gradually increase the amount of new food into their diet. In some cases, their new diet can cause diarrhea. If this lasts more than a couple days, see a veterinarian. Also, VERY IMPORTANT: YOUR GOAL IS TO KEEP YOUR PUPPY EATING ON A REGULAR BASIS. If you notice that your puppy won’t eat the new food, you need to find another brand. If they won’t eat dog food, find something that they will eat whether it’s hot dogs or sausages. It is imperative that your puppy eats regularly or they face the risk of becoming hypoglycemic. Remember, toy breed puppies can face hypoglycemia quite quickly if they are deprived of food for too long.  

Nap time is very important for a young puppy. Never disturb your puppy during sleep time. When your puppy is not playing or eating, they should be napping! Napping is important for the growth of health of your puppy.

Vaccinations & De-worming
Puppies start their vaccinations at 5- weeks, and a second shot is given at 8 weeks... . IT IS IMPORTANT TO GET THE PUPPY VACCINATED ON SCHEDULE...MORE THAN 4 WEEKS BETWEEN SHOTS, CAUSES THEM TO BE LESS EFFECTIVE..Puppy will need a third shot and some vets will recommend a fourth shot...so follow your vets advice. .REMEMBER YOUR PUPPY IS LIKE A NEWBORN BABY...IT DOES NOT GET PASSED AROUND IN THE SUBWAY TO EVERY STRANGER YOU SEE...
Until they have had their first 3 shots- 4 shots, they are still not fully protected...and Parvo is everywhere you go....so don't take them to Pet Smart to pick out a toy or to the doggy park to play....until they are older. We recommend limited exposure until they are 16 weeks old.

Ask your vet for the once a month pill for your puppy...it will prevent heartworm, normal worms, and kill the fleas it is called SENTINAL...it is wonderful it covers everything in one simple dose...get a six month supply when you see your vet...FRONTLINE is a monthly drop to prevent fleas but does not prevent worms....and HEARTGUARD is very good it kills fleas and some worms but doesn't kill hookworms and whipworms. ALL PUPS HAVE WORMS SO IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO KEEP THEM ON A DEWORMER...we deworm every two weeks until the puppy leaves us.
If you notice loose stools or strange behavior immediately take your puppy to the vet for an exam. 
You should only bathe your puppy if they are dirty. They will probably need a bath when they arrive...travel is messy business....just use a mild soap like baby shampoo and really rinse well...most skin itching is due to soap not being completely rinsed from the fur....Bathing too often can cause dry skin, sensitive skin, and irritations. Now as your puppy grows into adulthood it is your choice how often he/she will need grooming. This also depends on your dog’s hair length, style, etc.

Now the Good Stuff…Potty Training!
One thing to remember is patience. Don’t get frustrated if your puppy doesn’t learn things immediately. 

Crate Training
Crate training is often the best choice - while learning not to soil in the house, your puppy also learns to accept the crate as a safe, secure area. Dogs instinctively want a safe 'den' or resting area and usually learn not to soil where they sleep. A crate offers a perfect choice. Also, many crate-trained dogs will tend to be less anxious when kenneled for trips to the groomer, veterinarian, boarding facility, etc. 
It is very important to choose a crate size that is appropriate for your pet. For toy breed dogs puppies, you want to start with a smaller sized crate. A crate that is too large can confuse your puppy as too where they should sleep and go potty. Ideally, you don’t want your puppy to eliminate inside the crate. You don’t want them to confuse the crate as area where they sleep AND use the bathroom. If needed, you can block off a portion of the portion of the crate just make sure they don’t confused. The goal is to train your puppy to soil only in a designed spot outside of their crate such as a litter box, papered area, or grassy area outside.

You must begin crate training your puppy as soon as you bring them home after you have had lots of cuddle time and the pup is beginning to look tired... Begin by placing your puppy in their crate at one to two hour intervals for up to 3 hours at a time. You should also place your puppy in their crate when you cannot supervise for any reason at all such as answering a telephone or taking a shower. 

The whole goal behind crate training is to predict when your puppy will go potty. This way you can take them to a designated potty location before they eliminate in the wrong place.

So how can you predict when your puppy will eliminate? Well, the first step is getting your new found friend on a regular feeding schedule. Immediately after they finish eating, place them inside their crate for about 10 to 15 minutes. Next, remove them from their crate and take them to the designated potty area and tell them to “Go Potty”. After time, your puppy will eventually recognize this term and go potty almost on command. After they finish up their business, take them inside for some play time. After about half an hour of play, place your puppy back in their crate for a nice little nap. When they wake from their nap, immediately take them to potty again. Play with them if they go potty, but place them back in their crate if they don’t. Keep in mind anticipation and praise for good behavior. Repeat the above process every hour (longer as they grow older), along with taking them to potty after each meal and each nap. The following is a brief schedule as your puppy ages:

8 weeks – Potty every 1 hour
12 weeks – Potty every 2-3 hours
16 weeks – Potty every 3-4 hours

 You should always check with your veterinarian if you have questions about your new puppy.  Remember they are very small...so if you think you might need to see the vet...DO IT NOW 
Our breeding policy:  
We start breeding our dogs when they are two years old.  Dogs usually come into heat every 7-9 months.   They do not cycle monthly like cats.
If we are lucky we can get three litters in two years.  Sometimes the dogs skip cycles...but we don't encourage a skip, because it can lead to fertility problems.
We usually retire our girls at five years old.  We work with a rehoming facility in Joplin, MO.... that spays them and puts them in foster homes until they are house trained.  Our boys usually retire around five also.
Of course we have some girls who just don't do well as breeders.  Sometimes they don't like their pups,  or just don't get pregnant, or have only one or two pups.  They get retired early.  We work with
Golden Paw in Joplin to rehome all of our dogs.

Giardia are protozoa (one-celled organisms) that live in the small intestine of dogs and cats. 
Giardia are found throughout the United States and in many other parts of the world. 
Infection with Giardia is called 'giardiasis.'
There are many things we do not know about this parasite. Experts do not agree on how many species of Giardia there are and which ones affect which animals. Veterinarians do not even agree on how common Giardia infections are and when they should be treated. Generally, it is believed that infection with Giardia is common but disease is rare. There is much about the life cycle we do not know either. Some experts believe Giardia is shed when the mom is stressed with labor.  
Even very clean kennels have Giardia present.
How do Giardia reproduce and how are they transmitted? 
A dog becomes infected by eating the cyst form of the parasite. In the small intestine, the cyst opens and releases an active form called a trophozoite. These have flagella, hair-like structures that whip back and forth allowing them to move around. They attach to the intestinal wall and reproduce by dividing in two. After an unknown number of divisions, this form develops a wall around itself (encysts) and is passed in the feces. The Giardia in the feces can contaminate the environment and water and infect other animals.
What are the signs of a Giardia infection? 
Most infections with Giardia are asymptomatic. In the rare cases in which disease occurs, younger animals are usually affected, and the usual sign is diarrhea. The diarrhea may be acute, intermittent, or chronic. Usually the infected animals will not lose their appetite, but they may lose weight. The feces are often abnormal, being pale, having a bad odor, and appearing greasy. In the intestine, Giardia prevents proper absorption of nutrients, damages the delicate intestinal lining, and interferes with digestion.
This is another unknown. There are many species of Giardia, and experts do not know if these species infect only specific hosts. Sources of some human infections have possibly been linked to beavers, other wild animals, and domestic animals. Until we know otherwise, it would be wise to consider infected animals capable of transmitting Giardia to humans. 
 Most experts believe the human strand of Giardia is a different type....
How do we diagnose giardiasis? 
Giardiasis is very difficult to diagnose because the protozoa are so small and are not passed with every stool. Tests on serial stool samples (one stool sample every day for three days) are often required to find the organism. Special diagnostic procedures, beyond a routine fecal examination, are necessary to identify Giardia. The procedures we use to identify roundworms and hookworms kill the active form of Giardia and concentrate the cyst form.
To see the active form, a small amount of stool may be mixed with water on a microscope slide and examined under high magnification. Because these forms have flagella, you can see them move around on the slide. The active forms are more commonly found in loose stools. If you ever have the opportunity to see the active form of Giardia under the microscope, take it! It is an interesting-looking creature. It is pear-shaped and its anatomy makes it look like a cartoon face, with eyes (which often look crossed), nose, and mouth. Once you see it, you will not forget it.
Cysts are more commonly found in firm stools. Special solutions are used to separate the cysts from the rest of the stool. The portion of the solution that would contain the cysts is then examined microscopically.
In spring, 2004, a diagnostic test using ELISA technology became available. This test uses a very small fecal sample, and can be performed in 8 minutes in a veterinarian's office. It is much more accurate than a fecal examination.
We have done the tests, now what? 
Now we come to how to interpret the test results. It can be a dilemma for your veterinarian. What you see (or do not see) is not always a correct indication of what you have. A negative test may mean the animal is not infected. However, few, if any, laboratory tests are 100% accurate. Negative test results can also occur in some infected animals. If a negative test occurs, your veterinarian will often suggest repeating the test.
What about a positive test? That should not be hard to interpret, right? Wrong. Giardia can be found in many dogs with and without diarrhea. If we find Giardia, is it the cause of the diarrhea or is it just coincidence we found it? The animal could actually have diarrhea caused by a bacterial infection, and we just happened to find the Giardia. Test results always need to be interpreted in light of the signs, symptoms, and medical history.
If we find Giardia, how do we treat it? 
Here we go again; treatment is controversial too. There is a question about when to treat. If Giardia is found in a dog without symptoms should we treat the animal? Since we do not know if G. canis can infect man, we often err on the side of caution and treat an asymptomatic infected animal to prevent possible transmission to people.
If we highly suspect infection with Giardia, but can not find the organism, should we treat anyway? This is often done. Because it is often difficult to detect Giardia in the feces of dogs with diarrhea, if there are no other obvious causes of diarrhea (e.g.; the dog did not get into the garbage several nights ago) we often treat the animal for giardiasis.  Since all puppies stress from shipping, we choose to treat as if they have Giardia. Seven pills for seven days is a much easier solution than trying to clean up a full blown attack.
There are several treatments for giardiasis, although some of them have not been FDA-approved for that use in dogs. Fenbendazole or Panacur is an antiparasitic drug that kills some intestinal worms and can help control giardia. It may be used alone or with metronidazole. Metronidazole can kill some types of bacteria that could cause diarrhea. So if the diarrhea was caused by bacteria, and not Giardia, the bacteria can be killed and the symptoms eliminated. Unfortunately, metronidazole has some drawbacks it has a very bitter taste and many animals resent taking it – especially cats.  Our vet believes Metronidazole is the best solution...and also cures other bacteria as well. WE SEND PILLS WITH EVERY PUP WE SELL.....please give the pills for seven days...and we should not have to deal with Giardia.
Quinacrine hydrochloride has been used in the past, but is not very effective and can cause side effects such as lethargy, vomiting, anorexia, and fever.
But now we come to yet another unknown. It is possible these treatments only remove the cysts from the feces but do not kill all the Giardia in the intestine. 
How can I prevent my pet from becoming infected with Giardia? 
The cysts can live several weeks to months outside the host in wet, cold environments. So lawns, parks, kennels, and other areas that may be contaminated with animal feces can be a source of infection for your pet. You should keep your pet away from areas contaminated by the feces of other animals. 
This is not always easy.
As with other parasites of the digestive system, prevention of the spread of Giardia centers on testing and treating infected animals and using sanitary measures to reduce or kill the organisms in the environment. Solutions quaternary ammonium compounds are effective against Giardia.
Clean the Animals: Cysts can remain stuck to the haircoats of infected animals. So during treatment and before moving the treated animals to the clean area, they should be regularly shampooed and rinsed well. Especially concentrate on the perianal area. WASH THE BOTTOM VERY WELL
 A study at Kansas State University showed that bathing the pet at least 1-2 times per week to remove Giardia cysts clinging to the fur can help prevent reinfection. We also recommend wiping the area
under the tail with a baby wipe each time the pet defecates. In long haired dogs, trimming the fur under the tail can also help prevent oocysts from clinging to the area and causing reinfections.
While not always possible, it is best to avoid letting the pet out in areas where they have previously defecated.  Always pick up feces daily and dispose of appropriately.  It is important to have your pet's stool recheck after treatment is completed to ensure that the giardia have been removed.
Most commonly, this is done 3 weeks after treatment, but this may vary in some cases
The most common drug used to kill Giardia is called fenbendazole ("Panacur").
It is normally given daily for 6 days.
Another medication, metronidazole, given for five to seven day is potentially useful.
Sometimes in difficult cases metronidazole is used in with fenbendazole. Supportive treatment with other drugs may be needed as supplemental therapy if dehydration or severe diarrhea is present. Some dogs may require prescription diets that are very high in fiber, such as Science Diet W/D.
Remember, Giardia of dogs although it has not been proven, may infect people, so good, personal hygiene should be used by adults when cleaning kennels or picking up the yard, and by children who may play with pets or in potentially contaminated areas. 

Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith

References and Further Reading

Barr, SC; Bowman, DD. Giardiasis in dogs and cats. Compendium on Continuing Education for the Practicing Veterinarian. 1994;16(5):603-614.

Barr, SC; Bowman, DD; Frongillo, MF; Joseph, SL. Efficacy of a drug combination of praziquantel, pyrantel pamoate, and febental against giardiasis in dogs. American Journal of Veterinary Research. 1998;59(1):1134-1136.

Georgi, JR; Georgi, ME. Canine Clinical Parasitology. Lea & Febiger. Philadelphia, PA; 1992;59-61.

Griffiths, HJ. A Handbook of Veterinary Parasitology. University of Minnesota Press. Minneapolis, MN; 1978;21-22.

Hendrix, CM. Diagnostic Veterinary Parasitology. Mosby, Inc. St. Louis, MO; 1998;19-20.

Meyer, EK. Adverse events associated with albendazole and other products used for treatment of giardiasis in dogs. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association. 1998;213(1):44-46.

Sherding, RG; Johnson, SE. Diseases of the intestine. In Birchard, SJ; Sherding, RG (eds.) Saunders Manual of Small Animal Practice. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia, PA; 1994;699-700.

Sousby, EJL. Helminths, arthropods and protozoa of domesticated animals. Lea & Febiger. Philadelphia, PA; 1982;577-580.

Zajac, AM; LaBranche, TP; Donoghue, AR; Chu, Teng-Chiao. Efficacy of fenbendazole in the treatment of experimental Giardia infection in dogs. American Journal of Veterinary Research. 1998;59(1):61-63.
in conclusion, as indicated above....
​  We test all pups before they ship....because shipping will cause a drop in the immune system, and they are more likely to get sick the first seven days after shipping.

great website for info
                                SALES CONTRACT+WARRANTY
      We spay and neuter all pups before they leave the farm.

Please sign this warranty and mail it back to the address below. If the warranty is not signed and returned to us within 2 weeks of your possession of the puppy the warranty is considered null and void. We warrant that to the best of our ability and knowledge we have produced a healthy puppy. We have devoted much time, money, and energy to produce the best puppy possible. We follow all currently accepted health practices regarding sanitation, health screenings, de-worming and vaccinations under the advice of our veterinarian. Even with the best breeding programs at times unavoidable defects and problems may occur. Even though we make every effort to breed as close to the breed standard as possible, we do not warrant any issues other than health. Shedding is always possible…Deposits made for purchase of puppies are non-refundable if the buyer cancels the sale for any reason. Puppies can be returned for any reason, but no refunds or credits will be issued.  Micro chipping and Spay/Neutering are done as a courtesy:  
They are not covered by warranty.

We offer a 72 hour health warranty. Puppies received on a Friday can be seen by your vet on Monday....Within that time you must have this puppy seen by a veterinarian of your choice, at your expense, or all warrantees are null and void. We highly recommend your vet does a fecal at the first puppy check....We do a fecal before the puppy is shipped, but the stress of shipping and separation will reduce the immune system.....We do not warranty against normal puppy hood ailments such as worms, ring worm, kennel cough, cherry eyes, coccidiosis, giardia, or ear infections, as these can at times be unpreventable. We cannot guarantee pup will not cause an allergic response from those with allergies..We warrant against preexisting, severe, life-threatening or life-shortening diseases or disabilities. We do not warrant against any condition caused by carelessness, negligence or abuse. If the puppy is found to be defective we must be notified immediately and we reserve the right for the puppy to be reevaluated by a veterinarian of our choice. 

If puppy is determined by us to be defective, we will replace it with the next available comparable puppy of our choice. Buyer will be responsible for shipping expenses. We do not refund any money. In the event a puppy needs to be replaced the original puppy and all paperwork must be returned to us (at buyer’s expense). In the event the puppy needs to be euthanized, you must have permission from us prior to euthanization. This warranty is only valid to original buyer on original puppy. We do not take any responsibility for veterinarian bills or any other expenses incurred after the purchase of the puppy. We are not responsible for damages caused by the puppy. We do not assume liability for any injuries to the puppy after it has passed into your possession. We strongly recommend attending a basic obedience class and making sure your puppy is properly socialized. 

We require the buyer to keep the puppy up to date on all vaccinations, deworming, including heartworm prevention, keep it on an appropriate diet, and all other usual necessary procedures. Pups are sold as pets, no guarantee is made as to disposition, conformation, size, weight, color markings or exact mix of designer parents. In some cases a third breed may be added to enhance coat, intelligence or general health. In the event of any litigation in connection with this contract, the Seller will be paid reasonable attorney fees by the purchaser . Venue and jurisdiction for litigation arising out of or related to this contract shall lie exclusively in Jasper County Missouri. When you buy this puppy you are receiving full ownership rights.  We do not recognize DNA tests to have any validity....No pups will be returned or refunded on your DNA test....if that is important to you...buy your pup from a pet store.  We have to the best of our knowledge sound foundation stock...and our mixes are purely from these...Pups are NOT registered...They are designer blends that AKC does not recognize.  

RANDY+DEBI BARTKOSKI 417 359-9598 VETS NAME________________________
www.KingdomDogs.comVet’s phone ________________________ 
11252 GUM ROAD  
CARTHAGE, MO 64836 Date of Visit________________________

Buyer______________________________________________ Date of purchase _____________________

Street Address ______________________________________ Pups name that we used ________________  

City, State, Zip_______________________________________Breed of puppy: ______________________

Phone number__________________PLEASE MAKE A COPY FOR YOUR RECORDS       Date of birth__________

DNA TESTING: Here are some snips I found when I did my research….feel free to look yourself….We will not refund or allow a return on any puppy that DNA says is not a true mix….If you have any concerns, please buy a puppy from a pet store…We do our best to insure our pups are true bred….but a DNA test could show something weird…so if you need to test it, don’t bother buying it….

 But Fortune had a big question: Do these tests actually work? Short of becoming a geneticist and analyzing the DNA yourself, if you have a mixed breed rescue, how can you know whether any of this is legit? 
Most of the breeds that they mention can be way back in the ancestry, or even the development of the breed(s). 
We don't really know the makeup of most of our purebreds, as even the breed names have changed over the centuries. 

It's not a scam, exactly. 
It's just a little misleading. 
They can do paternity tests on dogs, just like they do for people, they CAN'T tell breed. 
Under the skin, on a molecular (DNA) level, all dogs are the same. There's no way to tell between breeds. 
So, if you have sample tests of dogs who you think may be related to yours, the tests can say yes or no. 
They can't just randomly "turn a pumkin into a coach" and tell you what breed the dog is. 
Sort of like Maury Povich can't tell who the "baby daddy" is without samples from all the possible men. 
Samples are taken and compared to the baby's for a match. (Or not as the case may be) 

Also, in my opinion, there are better things to spend your money on. Who cares what breed it is? You saw it, you love it, It loves you. Use that money to buy a toy or a chewie.
Breed tests have been sold in the U.S. for about five years, but the technique dates back at least to a study published in 2004. It revealed a process that can match DNA sequences, aka "microsatellite genotypes," to specific dog breeds, reportedly with 99 percent accuracy in trials. This eventually led to the rise of commercial tests, which look for genetic markers in the cheek cells of customers' pets. Mars obtained an exclusive license to the technology, according to a report by the Veterinary Information Network, and later sued its rivals when it received a patent in 2010.
Any breed test's accuracy depends largely on the number of breed-related genetic markers in its database. Wisdom Panel claims to be the industry "gold standard" in this respect, citing 19 million marker analyses that let it identify 203 different breeds— "more than any other test on the market," according to its website.
(How many breeds of dogs are there worldwide? The best estimates say "more than 500" distinct, true-breeding breeds and/or varieties being maintained in an adequate population and selectively bred in a state so as to remain distinct and true-breeding.)
This method makes sense on paper, says Joshua Akey, professor of gen
ome sciences at the University of Washington. "In theory, it should have pretty good power to say the breed origin of a particular dog," he tells MNN. "You're essentially looking for genetic markers that have very different allele frequency. One allele might have a high frequency in great danes, for example, and zero percent in chihuahuas."
In the early days of dog-breed testing, companies were using just 30 or 40 genetic markers, he adds, which made them virtually useless if your dog wasn't from one of those breeds. Wisdom Panel's claim of 203 markers may indicate a leap forward, but Akey still cautions against overvaluing the results. "It does sound like the accuracy of these tests may be getting better," he says. "But these tests are still not perfect. There is some imprecision, and they won't give you a 100 percent match."
Otis mostly matches the profile of an outbred dog, whose genetic diversity tends to favor a moderate size and wolflike appearance. "Regardless of parental coloring, the coat color for mixed breed dogs is often a light-to-medium brown ... or black, frequently with white markings on the chest and elsewhere," the Wisdom Panel website says. "A brown coat with black across the top and sides is also quite common, especially in outbred dog populations." Outbred dogs typically weigh about 40 pounds, it adds, and stand "between 1 and 2 feet tall at the withers."
So after shelling out $80 per test and giving Otis a cotton-swab phobia, I'm slightly more confident about what kind(s) of dog he is. Was it worth it? Wisdom Panel certainly thinks so. Its slogan, "Because I love my dog," implies that not buying a test signals an unloved dog. But it also tries to manage expectations, warning that its test "is not designed to determine which disease traits — if any — might be present in a dog." Short-nosed dogs like pugs often have breathing issues, for example, but not all do; and even though Otis is apparently part pug, his snout is relatively long.
Aside from curiosity, part of the reason we wanted to learn Otis' ancestry was to anticipate breed-related health problems or exercise needs. We initially thought he was a husky mix — meaning he'd likely needs lots of activity — but we only bought the first test after we already suspected we were wrong. And as Akey points out, behavior and body size can usually tell us more about a dog's needs than a DNA-based breed test.
"It's interesting to explore the ancestry, but my intuition is that the things you're going to learn are things you already expected," he says. "My advice would be to not have unrealistic expectations about the new things you'll learn."

We did wisdom panel on our alleged "pit bull/sheperd dog" as we were told by the people we got him from. according to wisdom panel, this solid fawn colored dog (with no spots) is an american staffordshire terrier x dalmatian mix ... lol .. never in my life have i seen a dalmatian that was solid brown, or one that did not have spots .. in their defense, dalmatians are shepherd dogs .. now we have a new "pitbull mix" puppy and want to do the test for her, but are a little wary ..
These tests are honestly, and quite bluntly, a bunch of bull. We don't have enough information on dog DNA to make any accurate guesses on breeds. These providers of DNA tests are making a quick buck out of gullible people, no offense. They play on our ability to see something written down and trick ourselves into actually believing it. Like self-diagnosing through the internet. You can write down your daily aches and pains as symptoms (such as I did once) and come out with having Lyme Disease or Tuberculosis. That doesn't mean you do, though brains do this remarkable thing of once they see something, they actually make it happen (not literally, I'm talking about creating false symptoms or, in this case, causing a matrix in your mind so that you see all these untrue breeds in your dog).
How could two breed tests yield such different results — especially since last year's patent dispute suggests they used similar methods? I emailed Mars Veterinary in hopes of learning more, but after an initial response from a PR representative, my followup emails were never answered. The question is addressed on Wisdom Panel's website, though, starting with this reassurance:
"We are often asked if it is possible to get different results on the same dog depending on which company performs the DNA analysis. The answer is yes, it is possible. 

A client of mine (I am a pet sitter) had a purebred Golden Retriever. He had seen the parents of the dog, the breeder was a reputable one (thank heaven). He tested his dog for the fun of it, and the results came back as... Golden Retriever? No. Not at all. They came back as at least Chihuahua, Poodle, and some other completely unrelated breeds.
If these tests can screw up pinpointing an actual purebred dog, then how reliable are they when it comes to actually pinpointing specific breeds in a mixed animal? It's a huge waste of money that these people are rolling in, probably laughing at us pet owners for our gullibility.

We will not refund or allow a return on any puppy that DNA says is not a true mix….If you have any concerns, please buy a puppy from a pet store…We do our best to insure our pups are true bred….but a DNA test could show something weird…so if you need to test it, don’t bother buying it….
To the best of our knowledge,  our poodles, cocker spaniels and king charles cavalier are purebred....we bought our foundation stock from AKC breeders that we trusted.   Since creating mix breed puppies,  we have stopped the paperwork on our parents...We do not register the puppies..it is just vanity paperwork.

 1. Recommended Food
 2. Potty Training
 3. Basic Puppy Care
 4. Puppy Mouthing and Biting
 5. Our Breeding Policy
 6. Info on Giardia
 7. Copy of Contract & Warranty
 8. Info regarding DNA testing
 9. Early spay and neuter
What to Do About Puppy Mouthing and Biting
It’s important to help your puppy learn to curb his mouthy behavior. There are various ways, some better than others, to teach this lesson. The ultimate goal is to train your puppy to stop mouthing and biting people altogether. However, the first and most important objective is to teach him that people have very sensitive skin, so he must be very gentle when using his mouth.
Bite Inhibition: Teach Your Puppy to Be Gentle 
Bite inhibition refers to a dog’s ability to control the force of his mouthing. A puppy or dog who hasn’t learned bite inhibition with people doesn’t recognize the sensitivity of human skin, and so he bites too hard, even in play. Some behaviorists and trainers believe that a dog who has learned to use his mouth gently when interacting with people will be less likely to bite hard and break skin if he ever bites someone in a situation apart from play-like when he’s afraid or in pain.
Puppies usually learn bite inhibition during play with other puppies. If you watch a group of puppies playing, you’ll see plenty of chasing, pouncing and wrestling. Puppies also bite each other all over. Every now and then, a pup will bite his playmate too hard. The victim of the painful bite yelps and usually stops playing. The offender is often taken aback by the yelp and also stops playing for a moment. However, pretty soon, both playmates are back in the game. Through this kind of interaction, puppies learn to control the intensity of their bites so that no one gets hurt and the play can continue without interruption. If puppies can learn how to be gentle from each other, they can also learn the same lesson from people.

When you play with your puppy, let him mouth on your hands. Continue play until he bites especially hard. When he does, immediately give a high-pitched yelp, as if you’re hurt, and let your hand go limp. This should startle your puppy and cause him to stop mouthing you, at least momentarily. (If yelping seems to have no effect, you can say “Too bad!” or “You blew it!” in a stern voice instead.) Praise your puppy for stopping or for licking you. Resume whatever you were doing before. If your puppy bites you hard again, yelp again. Repeat these steps no more than three times within a 15-minute period. If you find that yelping alone doesn’t work, you can switch to a time-out procedure. Time-outs are often very effective for curbing mouthing in puppies. When your puppy delivers a hard bite, yelp loudly. Then, when he startles and turns to look at you or looks around, remove your hand. Either ignore him for 10 to 20 seconds or, if he starts mouthing on you again, get up and move away for 10 to 20 seconds. After the short time-out, return to your puppy and encourage him to play with you again. It’s important to teach him that gentle play continues, but painful play stops. Play with your puppy until he bites hard again. When he does, repeat the sequence above. When your puppy isn’t delivering really hard bites anymore, you can tighten up your rules a little. Require your puppy to be even gentler. Yelp and stop play in response to moderately hard bites. Persist with this process of yelping and then ignoring your puppy or giving him a time-out for his hardest bites. As those disappear, do the same for his next-hardest bites, and so on, until your puppy can play with your hands very gently, controlling the force of his mouthing so that you feel little or no pressure at all.
What to Do Next: Teach Your Puppy That Teeth Don’t Belong on Human Skin 
Substitute a toy or chew bone when your puppy tries to gnaw on fingers or toes.
Puppies often mouth on people’s hands when stroked, patted and scratched (unless they’re sleepy or distracted). If your puppy gets all riled up when you pet him, distract him by feeding him small treats from your other hand. This will help your puppy get used to being touched without mouthing.
Encourage noncontact forms of play, such as fetch and tug-of-war, rather than wrestling and rough play with your hands. (Refer to our article, Teaching your Dog to Play Fetch, to learn more about this game.) To keep tug-of-war safe and fun for you and your puppy, you’ll need to follow strict rules. Please see our article, Teaching Your Dog to Play Tug-of-War, for detailed guidelines. Once your puppy can play tug safely, keep tug toys in your pocket or have them easily accessible. If he starts to mouth you, you can immediately redirect him to the tug toy. Ideally, he’ll start to anticipate and look for a toy when he feels like mouthing.
If your puppy bites at your feet and ankles, carry his favorite tug toy in your pocket. Whenever he ambushes you, instantly stop moving your feet. Take out the tug toy and wave it enticingly. When your puppy grabs the toy, start moving again. If you don’t happen to have the toy available, just freeze and wait for your puppy to stop mouthing you. The second he stops, praise and get a toy to reward him. Repeat these steps until your puppy gets used to watching you move around without going after your feet or ankles.
Provide plenty of interesting and new toys so that your puppy will play with them instead of gnawing on you or your clothing.
Provide plenty of opportunities for your puppy to play with other puppies and with friendly, vaccinated adult dogs. Playing and socializing with dog buddies is important for your puppy’s development-and if he expends a lot of his energy playing with other puppies, he’ll feel less motivated to play roughly with you. Consider enrolling your puppy in a good puppy class, where he can have supervised playtime with other puppies and learn some important new skills! Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) in your area who offers puppy classes.
Use a time-out procedure, just like the one described above-but change the rules a little. Instead of giving your puppy time-outs for hard biting, start to give him time-outs every time you feel his teeth touch your skin.
The instant you feel your puppy’s teeth touch you, give a high-pitched yelp. Then immediately walk away from him. Ignore him for 30 to 60 seconds. If your puppy follows you or continues to bite and nip at you, leave the room for 30 to 60 seconds. (Be sure that the room is “puppy-proofed” before you leave your puppy alone in it. Don’t leave him in an area with things he might destroy or things that might hurt him.) After the brief time-out, return to the room and calmly resume whatever you were doing with your puppy.
Alternatively, you can keep a leash attached to your puppy during time-out training and let it drag on the floor when you’re there to supervise him. Then, instead of leaving the room when your puppy mouths you, you can take hold of his leash and lead him to a quiet area, tether him, and turn your back to him for the brief time-out. Then untie him and resume whatever you were doing.
If a time-out isn’t viable or effective, consider using a taste deterrent, such as Grannick’s Bitter Apple®. (For more information on taste deterrents and how to use them, please see our article, Using Taste Deterrents.) Spray areas of your body and clothing that your puppy likes to mouth before you start interacting with him. If he mouths you or your clothing, stop moving and wait for him to react to the bad taste of the deterrent. Praise him lavishly when he lets go of you. Apply the bad taste to your body and clothes for at least two weeks. After two weeks of being punished by the bitter taste every time he mouths you, your puppy will likely learn to inhibit his mouthy behavior.
Be patient and understanding. Playful mouthing is normal behavior for a puppy or young dog.
Because mouthing issues can be challenging to work with, don’t hesitate to enlist the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT). A CPDT will offer group or private classes that can give you and your dog lots of assistance with mouthing.Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a CPDT in your area.

General Precautions
 Avoid waving your fingers or toes in your puppy’s face or slapping the sides of his face to entice him to play. Doing these things can actually encourage your puppy to bite your hands and feet.
Do not discourage your puppy from playing with you in general. Play builds a strong bond between a dog and his human family. You want to teach your puppy to play gently, rather than not at all.
Avoid jerking your hands or feet away from your puppy when he mouths. This will encourage him to jump forward and grab at you. It’s much more effective to let your hands or feet go limp so that they aren’t much fun to play with.
Slapping or hitting puppies for playful mouthing can cause them to bite harder. They usually react by playing more aggressively. Physical punishment can also make your puppy afraid of you-and it can even cause real aggression. Avoid scruff shaking, whacking your puppy on the nose, sticking your fingers down his throat and all other punishments that might hurt or scare him.

When Does Mouthing Become Aggression?
 Most puppy mouthing is normal behavior. However, some puppies bite out of fear or frustration, and this type of biting can signal problems with future aggression.
Puppy “Temper Tantrums” 
Puppies sometimes have temper tantrums. Usually tantrums happen when you’re making a puppy do something he doesn’t like. Something as benign as simply holding your puppy still or handling his body might upset him. Tantrums can also happen when play escalates. (Even human “puppies” can have tantrums during play when they get overexcited or upset!) A puppy temper tantrum is more serious than playful mouthing, but it isn’t always easy to tell the difference between the two. In most cases, a playful puppy will have a relaxed body and face. His muzzle might look wrinkled, but you won’t see a lot of tension in his facial muscles. If your puppy has a temper tantrum, his body might look very stiff or frozen. He might pull his lips back to expose his teeth or growl. Almost always, his bites will be much more painful than normal mouthing during play.

If you’re holding or handling your puppy and he starts to throw a temper tantrum, avoid yelping like you’re hurt. Doing that might actually cause your puppy to continue or intensify his aggressive behavior. Instead, be very calm and unemotional. Don’t hurt your puppy, but continue to hold him firmly without constriction, if possible, until he stops struggling. After he’s quieted down for just a second or two, let him go. Then make plans to contact a qualified professional for help. Repeated bouts of biting in frustration are not something that the puppy will simply grow out of, so your puppy’s behavior should be assessed and resolved as soon as possible.
A trained professional can help you determine whether or not your puppy’s mouthing is normal, and she or he can guide you through an effective treatment plan. If you suspect that your puppy’s biting fits the description of aggressive or fearful behavior, please seek consultation with a qualified professional, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior (Dip ACVB). If you can’t find a behaviorist in your area, you can seek help from a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT)-but be sure to determine whether she or he has professional training and experience in successfully treating fear and aggression problems, as this expertise isn’t required for CPDT certification. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate one of these professionals in your area.
 Puppies spend a great deal of time playing, chewing and investigating objects. All of these normal activities involve puppies using their mouths and their needle-sharp teeth. When puppies play with people, they often bite, chew and mouth on people’s hands, limbs and clothing. This kind of behavior may seem cute when your puppy is seven weeks old, but it’s not nearly so endearing when he’s three or four months old-and getting bigger by the day!

   Puppy Mouthing and Biting
A $500 non refundable deposit 
will hold your puppy until it is 6 weeks old, 
then payment in full is required....
Deposit is not transferable... It is a commitment to that puppy.  We remove the pup from all advertising sites and it becomes yours.

                                      EARLY SPAYING AND NEUTERING
              we spay and neuter around 6 weeks of age

Each year in the United States, millions of homeless or unwanted dogs and cats are euthanized in animal shelters and humane societies. While precise numbers are difficult to obtain, the Humane Society of the United States estimates that between three and four million dogs and cats are euthanized each year.1 Many factors have led to the overpopulation of dogs and cats, and the solution will be multifaceted, as well. Until safe and effective chemical or immunologic sterilization is available, ovariohysterectomy and orchiectomy will be the cornerstone of any program to reduce the overpopulation and, thereby, reduce the number of animals relinquished and euthanized each year.
The most effective way to ensure that animals adopted from shelters do not reproduce is to spay or neuter them before adoption. Voucher programs or prepaid spay-neuter programs in which arrangements are made at the time of adoption to have an animal spayed or castrated at a later date simply do not work for the majority of these animals. The national compliance rate of these programs is < 40%.2-4 With preadoption spays and castrations, compliance is not an issue, obviously.

In the shelter environment, we recommend spaying or neutering dogs and cats before adoption and as young as 6 weeks of age. In a practice treating owned animals, we recommend scheduling one more appointment at the end of the puppy or kitten vaccination series. 
With this schedule, puppies and kittens are spayed or neutered before 5 months of age, before sexual maturity.

Ovariohysterectomy or orchiectomy of pediatric dogs and cats is supported by the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) and is becoming increasing popular, especially in the shelter and high-quality, high-volume spay-neuter environments. The AVMA policy statement says, "The AVMA supports the concept of pediatric spay/neuter in dogs and cats in an effort to reduce the number of unwanted animals of these species. Just as for other veterinary medical and surgical procedures, veterinarians should use their best medical judgment in deciding at what age spay/neuter should be performed on individual animals."5 Other organizations supporting pediatric neutering are the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association,6 the British Small Animal Veterinary Association,7 and the American Animal Hospital Association.8

In addition to the commonly accepted health benefits associated with ovariohysterectomy and orchiectomy, such as reducing the incidence of mammary neoplasia and behavioral problems, pediatric (between 8 and 16 weeks of age) spay and neuter offer additional advantages. They are effective tools for dealing with the overpopulation of unwanted dogs and cats. The surgical procedures are easier, faster, and less expensive than they are in adult animals.9,10 With shorter surgery times and shorter anesthetic episodes, the incidence of perioperative complications is low.9 Anesthetic recovery and healing are shorter than in adults as well.9,11

How spaying and neutering benefits pets’ health and behavior
Veterinarians Charlie Meynier and Jim Stortz write that spaying female dogs and cats reduces the incidence of mammary cancer, eliminates uterine and ovarian cancer risk and prevents pyometra, a potentially life-threatening infection of the uterus. Neutering male animals protects them from prostatic hypertrophy and infections, as well as testicular cancer and certain types of hernias. Drs. Meynier and Stortz also note that many less desirable animal behaviors are usually reduced by spaying or neutering, including roaming and territorial aggression.

There are many theories when it comes to the medical and behavioral effects of spaying and neutering dogs and cats. It is a controversial subject and there are numerous viewpoints out there among trainers, breeders, and within the veterinary profession.
The chief intent of this article is to state proven scientific facts. we’ll go through the medical benefits of neutering and spaying both dogs and cats, and finish with our personal beliefs on the behavioral changes that can occur.
The principal benefit of spaying female dogs and cats is the prevention of mammary cancer. A dog spayed before her first heat will have a near zero chance of developing mammary cancer later in life. After the first heat, this incidence climbs to 7 percent, and after the second heat the risk approaches 25 percent. Statistics are similar in cats.
The prevention of what is frequently a very difficult and potentially fatal form of cancer is reason enough to spay our dogs. Another potential condition in intact females is a bacterial infection of the uterus called pyometra. Treatment is surgery in a potentially unstable patient and can be very costly.
Less common conditions such as uterine and ovarian cancer are 100 percent prevented by spaying. Intact female dogs come into heat about every 8 months, resulting in bloody vaginal discharge and an unpleasant odor.
The major health benefits involved in neutering a dog involve the prostate gland. As dogs age, the prostate will gradually enlarge. This is known as benign prostate hyperplasia or BPH (think Flomax commercials). The prostate under the influence of testosterone is also predisposed to infection. This is an extremely painful and sometime life-threatening condition which is not likely to resolve without neutering and often invasive surgery.
Other medical conditions that are prevented include testicular cancer, along with certain types of hernias and perianal tumors. The effects of neutering male cats are more behavioral and are listed below.
There are no concrete facts when it comes to the behavioral changes seen in spayed and neutered dogs and cats. Neutering male dogs and cats can reduce urine marking in your house, aggression towards other dogs, and territorial aggression. It is important to realize that these behaviors can become a habit and continue after neutering.
Many experts say that once a pet is older than 1 year of age and still intact, undesirable behaviors are more likely to become permanent even if they are neutered at that time. The most dangerous behavior seen in intact males is roaming, i.e., running away to look for a mate, because it leads to animals running away as well as car accidents.
The reproductive tracts of the female dog and cat are dormant for most of the year. From a behavioral standpoint, the animals will “act spayed” most of the time and no personality changes should be noted with spaying. When in heat, females are more likely to be aggressive and can show erratic behavior such as howling and writhing on the ground. And an intact male can detect females in heat from miles away so it is not safe to leave them outside unsupervised.
The medical benefits resulting from spaying and neutering pets lead to longer and healthier lives. In addition, the majority of animals will be more relaxed and less prone to undesirable behavior. The Vail Valley Animal Hospital recommends spaying and neutering.  They are outpatient procedures and animals can go home the day of the surgery.
Dr. Charlie Meynier, DVM, has been a practicing vet for more than 12 years with a degree from the LSU School of Veterinary Medicine and Dr. Jim Stortz, DVM, has been a practicing vet since completing his Emergency and Critical Care Medicine internship in 2006. The Vail Valley Animal Hospital offers services at both Eagle Vail and Edwards locations. For more information and to make an appointment, call 970-949-4044 (Eagle-Vail) or 970-926-3496 (Edwards) or visit www.vailvalleyanimalhospital.com.
  Microchips are worthless unless they    are registered in your name.

  there are many companies that register
  microchips.  Google search will find you many  

  microchipregistrationcenter.com  $22.95
  one time fee/ no additional charges

       Jason 417 396-0345 
       email:  pups47@hotmail.com
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The cavapoo vs cockapoo: How are you ever going to decide?
If these two remarkably similar mix breeds are your final choices for a new pet, it is understandable that you might have a hard time making a decision. After all, both breeds are descendants of the poodle, which causes them both to be very similar. 
Luckily, we’re here to help you decide.
On the surface, it might seem like there isn’t much of a difference between these two dogs. However, both are unique. Both breeds are low shedding thanks to their poodle genes, but their appearance can vary widely, even within one breed.
A cockapoo is a crossbreed between a poodle and a cocker spaniel.
The particular type of cocker spaniel does not matter; the result will be a cockapoo.  As you can see, both of these crossbreeds are descended from slightly different dogs, which has a significant effect on their temperament, health and appearance.
Both types of dogs are considered to be friendly and outgoing, though they differ in how well they deal with being home alone.  In this article, we will compare the cavapoo and cockapoo, looking at these differences and many more to help you decide which dog breed is right for you and your family.
Cavapoo vs Cockapoo Size
Because they have different parents, the cavapoo and cockapoo are different sizes.  OUR cavapoo can weigh from 15 to 30 pounds and can reach from 11 to 14 inches tall. MOST OF OUR CAVAPOO ARE USUALLY AROUND TWENTY POUNDS.
The exact measurements depend a lot on what type of poodle the cavapoo is descended from.  OUR POODLE STOCK IS CONSIDERED MINI TO MOYEN SIZE USUALLY AROUND TWENTY POUNDS
Does Size Matter?
This differs slightly from the cavapoo, but such a small amount can be a huge difference.
Cavapoo vs Cockapoo Coat
Both of these dogs have a somewhat similar coat. The cavapoo and cockapoo are both considered low shedding and might be considered hypoallergenic. But, besides that, it becomes tough to compare them.
It is hard to predict what they will look like because you do not know what genes they will inherit from what parents.
Cavapoo Coats
The cavapoo’s coat can vary widely.  Some cavapoo will look similar to a poodle, while others will look more like a Cavalier King Charles spaniel.  Coat colors can be anything from brown to white to black.
Some will have solid coats while others will be tri-colored.
Cockapoo Coats
The cockapoo is similar in its appearance variance. They can be red, white, beige or anything in between. Some have spots; some do not.  Others have bridles while some have tuxedos.
One cavapoo might look more similar to a cockapoo than a member of its breed. The unknown factor of crossbreeding is just so high that you never really know what you’re going to get. WE LOVE THE SURPRISE.
Cavapoo vs Cockapoo Grooming
Regarding grooming, these breeds differ widely. The cavapoo is usually considered low-maintenance. Many are cut to keep their coat short, in which case they will only require the occasional bath.
If a longer coat is preferred, a weekly brushing is required to prevent tangles from forming.
On the other hand, the cockapoo’s coat grows very quickly. It requires both frequent clipping and brushing to keep the coat from becoming tangled. If a cockapoo’s coat is more similar to a cocker spaniel than a poodle, frequent bathing will be required to keep the long, silky coat clean.
Cavapoo vs Cockapoo Temperament
Before we dive into the temperament of each breed, it is important to stress that the unknown factor of crossbreeding affects temperament just like it does appearance.
However, with crossbreeds like these two dogs, you don’t know what genes are going to be passed on from which parent. This affects temperament just like size and appearance.
Cavapoo vs Cockapoo Personality
Generally speaking, cavapoo are considered to be gentle and loving dogs. They usually get along well with smaller children due to their taller height and are regarded as great family pets.
They love the company of humans and can get very attached to their companions. WE CALL THEM VELCRO PUPPIES.
Cockapoo are considered friendly like the cavapoo but are affected more by separation anxiety.
They are also more active and require more exercise than a cavapoo. However, this can make them better suited to owners with a more active lifestyle.
Cavapoo vs Cockapoo Health
Due to hybrid vigor, both of these breeds are generally healthy. Cockapoo usually live longer than cavapoo. They typically live to be around 14-18 years while a cavapoo usually lives 13-15 years.
Both the cavapoo and cockapoo are not usually prone to many health problems. 
Should I Get a Cockapoo or a Cavapoo?
Whichever breed of dog you decide to get depends a lot on what you’re looking for and your particular situation.  Both are similar in a number of ways. Both are considered to be good friendly pets and get along well with small children.
The cockapoo and cavapoo are both considered to be healthy.
Still, there are a number of differences between cavapoo vs cockapoo.
Cockapoo are more active and might make a great pet if you have an active lifestyle. But, they also do not stay home alone well and can quickly develop separation anxiety.
Cavapoo are more laid-back and do not require as much grooming. Overall, how much time you have to spend on your new puppy will likely play a huge role in which canine you pick.
References and Further Reading
“Cockapoo Coal Colour Gallery,” The Cockapoo Club of GB
Rogers, A., “Home Alone Cockapoos,” Cockapoo Owners Club UK
info from THE HAPPY PUPPY SITE  edited to fit our particular breeding stock.